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Life's a Beach
By Michael Alan Hamlin
May 24, 2004

The Pearl of the Pacific Hotel in Boracay markets itself as "heaven in paradise." If it is, hell is even worse than I had thought. While Boracay has the world's best beach going for it, the Pearl of the Pacific Hotel represents much of what is wrong with the island paradise, which has had a tough couple of years brought on by the war on terror and last year's SARS scare. But Boracay's real problems are strategic, and deeper than either of those two short-term threats.

How so? First is the matter of short-term perspective. May is the Korean wedding month, as well as the last month of the school summer break here. So the island's hotels and resorts are again jam-packed. As I've noted in this space before, when times are good and a seller's market prevails, hotels typically forget that markets are inherently cyclical, and that breathtaking dips always follow even healthy seasonal gains.

As a result customer service suffers, and goodwill turns to animosity. The Pearl of the Pacific experience my family and I had recently illustrates this reality. The hotel package featured two inclusive breakfasts and two dinners. Unfortunately, dinners are typically overbooked, and so some guests must go without some of the most popular menu items promised on the limited menu, such as grilled prawns and squid. And it's somewhat awkward to have to fight over the buffet like shoppers elbowing each other over a discount counter.

Since the Pearl of the Pacific package costs even more than a comparable package at less well-known resorts such as Club Paradise - which has excellent food and never runs out - it's hard to imagine why the hotel runs out of food as if on cue. Except for the obvious reason that the Pearl of the Pacific, as a matter of policy apparently, short-changes its guests.

There were other surprises as well. When we checked in, our rooms sported threadbare sheets, dirty towels, and lonely minibars. No one had swept under the beds for what looked like years, and the Roman shades mechanism was broken in one. At breakfast, tasteless brown water was provided as coffee. My mother-in-law bought instant coffee sachets to make it drinkable. The lobby toilets had no running water. Our reservation for a masseuse was ignored by the front desk receptionist. And when our youngest daughter sat on a lounge chair in her just-purchased shorts, it turned out to be newly painted, with no sign to warn guests away.

Young Korean honeymooners make great victims. A majority, presumably, won't be back for another honeymoon anytime soon, so no matter how shabbily they are treated they represent little future lost revenue. Unless, of course, you consider that it's probably unlikely that they'll recommend the hotel - or the island - to their friends and family members when they begin planning their own honeymoons and vacations.

One particularly galling episode deserves mention because it tragically characterizes the quality of service overall at the hotel. As we were preparing to check out, a housekeeping staff member inspected our rooms. This is a fairly typical practice for tier two hotels which don't trust their guests to tell the truth about what they took from the minibar. That's only part of the reason the Pearl of the Pacific Hotel inspects rooms before guests are allowed to complete checkout, however. The other is, now get this, to check for stains on sheets and pillow cases. Apparently, guests must pay for any sheets and pillow cases they leave stained. In front of me, the housekeeper nonchalantly called the front desk reporting, "No minibar; no stains."

Anecdotal evidence emerging from informal talks with other guests on the island suggests that hotel and resort service is generally unsatisfactory and certainly unspectacular. We found that to be the case for the native food stalls in the market as well. They, like the hotel, seemed to find themselves running out of food but failing to mention that unhappy fact when inviting guests to avail of their "hospitality."

There were, of course, some important bright spots aside from the beach. One is some truly world-class restaurants, like the quaint Caribo operated by Edgar Mercado. Mercado's Mediterranean menu is revised every six months, and last week featured exceptionally thoughtful offerings that would receive rave reviews anywhere. We were so happy with our lunch the third day of our visit, that we returned to Caribo on our fourth, and last day. I still dream of the rice in crab fat.

As we sat relaxing over coffee following that first lunch, Mercado told us that he had fashioned his restaurant after those he'd visited on the Mediterranean. "We have a much better beach here," he told me, "but we have no culture. Mediterranean villagers take such pride in the way they present their stores and restaurants. Each one has real character. Unfortunately, you don't see that here. It's just an opportunity to make money."

There's nothing wrong with making money, of course. The problem is when making money is purely an opportunistic endeavor, which is when it becomes a bit like mining. Miners exploit the resource, and when it's gone, they leave. Establishments like Pearl of the Pacific are doing something similar. But instead of just exploiting resources, or customers, they are driving them away. If they don't wake up, though, the result will be the same: no more resources to exploit.

(Michael Alan Hamlin is the managing director of consultancy TeamAsia and the author of three books on Asian economies and companies. His latest book is Marketing Asian Places, of which he is a co-author (Wiley, 2001), and he is currently at work on High Visibility: The Making and Marketing of Asian Professionals into Celebrities. Write him at mahamlin@teamasia.com.).

Copyright © 2003 Michael Alan Hamlin. All Rights Reserved.

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